Wednesday, 10 August 2011

Rhuys Peninsula, Sarzeau and La Ferme de Lann Hoëdic

It seems that the authorities in Brittany are just as willing to completely close roads as those who rule our highways and byways in the UK.  We followed the directions for our campsite at La Ferme de Lann Hoëdic only to get within 2kms and find the road closed.  It took us another 25 minutes to negotiate the diversion with some angst about the narrow lanes (small roads big rig) to get to the campsite.

La Ferme de Lann Hoedic is an attractive site, with spacious pitches and plenty of trees.

Play area at La  Ferme de Lann Hoedic
The owners Tim and Mireille Prouten (he's English, she's French - and a fluent English speaker) are friendly and very helpful.  We visited at the beginning of June and the site was almost full.  There are many return visitors who have filled the visitors books with photos, stories, sketches and paintings of the happy times they've had staying in the area and at the site.  The Reception also boasts some magnificent framed photos of birds.  These were taken at the salt marshes and surrounding area of Suscinio by a regular visitor.  Unfortunately the day when Grasshopper went at the crack of dawn, it was raining so the photos did not come up to scratch.
Unspoilt beaches at Lann Hoedic
Lots of English people are regulars, and we pitched near some to some friendly Dutch, German and French couples.  Marie Blanchette and Claude initiated us in to the delights of buttery Breton biscuits and savoury galettes.  Isn't it amazing how easy it can be to communicate when we try, even when verbal language is difficult?

The site has two mixed toilet/shower blocks which are modern and clean.  Strangely, toilet paper and soap is not provided, although there was a handryer. Lack of these necessities seems common in France.  It just means you have to remember to carry your own with you when you pay a visit, however I would prefer to pay slightly more for the convenience of having paper and soap provided.

Highlights of our visit to the Rhuys Peninsula

Craft Market in Sarzeau
Fresh Apricots in the Market

  • Sarzeau, a pretty market town with lots of pavement cafes, church and markets in the square.  Visit on market day for a wonderful range of fresh fruit and veg, fish, bread, cheese and meats.  There was also a craft weekend market.  Unfortunately it poured with rain the whole weekend.

Castle at Suscinio

Suscinio, fairytale castle, previously the home of the lords of Normandy - currently being renovated, salt marshes, avocets, long sandy beach edged with wildflowers.  I was waylaid by an elderly french gentleman near the artisans' houses and the creperie.  A very long conversation in French resulted in him trying to sell me a cottage!  He either mistook me for someone with euros to spare or something was lost in translation.

Le Passage, St.Armel, La Villeneuve.  It was another miserable. wet day when we travelled down the narrow strip of land that connects the mainland to Le Passage which is almost an island.  Flat bottomed oyster boats are moored here.  There are pretty views across the bay, a cottage on an island that made me think of Famous Five adventures, lashings of ginger beer, smugglers and strange 'goings on'.  The rain stopped and on our way back we stopped at a roadside bar tabac, I think in St. Armel.  The French have diversification just right.  This one doubled as a boulangerie and patisserie so we were able to enjoy a glass of wine whilst contemplating which of the delicious pains et tartes we would choose for a picnic.

Lively Quiberon
The Quiberon Peninsula.  A boiling hot day and we chose to visit at le weekend so the one road down the peninsula was crammed.  The most traffic we'd encountered since Quimper.  As it is a narrow strip of land there are many stopping off points to the left and right should you want a bit of wind surfing, or kite flying or a combination job.  Lots of places for wild camping too.  We just set our sights for the southerly tip and Quiberon, a lively seaside resort with wide sandy beaches and pavement cafes.  We were lucky to find a table at one, also called Le Passage and enjoyed moules (me) filet mignon de porc (Grasshopper) et frites. 

We will definitely go back to the Rhuys Peninsula and La Ferme de Lann Hoedic, we loved it and there is so much more to see and enjoy.  
A Curious Fish at Quiberon

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