1001 Ways to Use a Volcano

I wrote in a previous blog that I think that the Lanzarotians must be a most resilient, inventive and creative people.  The Canary Islands erupted from the sea millions of years ago. 
Lanzarote's dramatic, mountainous landscape is the result of a fractured Earth spewing molten rock from it's core   The most recent eruptions devastated the agricultural heart of the island between 1730 and 1736.  Clearly never subjugated by the earth's power, the island's people have used the results of these cataclysmic events resourcefully to keep themselves safe, fed, refreshed and artistically enriched. 

Entrance to La Cueva de los Verdes, Monte Corona in the background

Lighting the way through the grottoes 

We visited the Cuevos de Los Verdes, which are impressive grottoes connected by lava tunnels deep below the earth's surface.  The multi-lingual Lanzarotian guide explained that the tunnels were formed between three and five thousand years ago when Monte Corona erupted and lava streamed the 6km to the sea.  The surface cooled, but lava still flowed beneath the earth's crust.  Gas bubbles exploded, forming huge cathedral like caves.  We walked the 2km now open to the public.  This is fairly easy to walk, although there are steep steps in parts.  The tunnels and caves are lit to show the grottoes and underground lake to advantage. 

The guide explained that the tunnel stretches all the way to Monte Corona, and within the remaining 4kms there is a laboratory where vulcanologists monitor seismic activity around the Canary Islands. 

He told us that when the Lanzarote was a frequent 'stop over' for pirates and slave traders, the inhabitants used to hide in the caves until the coast was clear.  It is easy to imagine people being able to live quite comfortably.  The caves are dry and temperate.  You feel a flow of fresh air, and there is fresh water filtered by the rocks above. 

Is this auditorium the deepest in the world?

Most amazingly there is a huge auditorium, where concerts are frequently performed.  There were no productions during our stay, but the acoustics must be wonderful in this huge cavern.

Jardin de Cactus



Cacti, but not as we know them. 



You must go.  Yes I know it feels a bit desperate to visit a cactus garden for something to do, yet I can tell you that you will be amazed and happy you did!  http://lanzarote.com/jardin-de-cactus 



The huge botanical garden (designed by Cesar Manrique, of course) houses the late botanist Estanislao González Ferrer's grand collection of cacti from America, Madagascar and the Canary Islands.  They are landscaped amongst some of Cesar's sculptures in the dramatic setting of an old volcanic ash quarry.  Volcanic ash is used by farmers to cover crops to retain moisture from the early morning dew. 

We looked for the cochineal beetle that feeds on one variety of cactus.  No luck. Perhaps it was the wrong time of year.  The whole place is well kept and there is an interesting little gift shop.  There is also a restaurant where the waiters can quickly come up with a first aid box, if you do as I did and lacerate your calf on a cactus when you step back for a photo. 

Once again there are very clean public toilets.  They also benefit from having more creative signage than normal.



No mistaking the ladies loos.



Driving in Lanzarote.

Lanzarotian Art in Teguise

Grasshopper and I were pleased we'd hired a car for the fortnight.  Not only did it cost about the same for the hire as it would have done to get a taxi to and from the airport, we could explore Lanzarote and discover the many treats it offers inquisitive holiday makers.  I found the roads easy to drive on, in good condition and well marked.  They are not too busy, apart from in and around Arrecife in the rush hour.   Car parking was free everywhere we went!  Fuel is much cheaper than in the UK.  We booked the car in advance from Goldcar Rental and picked it up (with no fuss from a pleasant English speaking assistant) at Arrecife Airport on arrival.  It gave us no bother the whole time we were there and the drop off on our return to the airport at the end of the holiday was also conducted pleasantly and easily.  Hire cost was very reasonable as was the cost of additional insurance.  Go to http://www.goldcar.es/

In between pick up and drop off, we enjoyed stress free drives to numerous places of interest including the fishing villages of Arrietta and Orzola in the North, peaceful Haria and Teguise in the mountains, Timanfaya National Park, the fertile central wine growing region, and some of the varied artistic, historic, architectural and natural attractions that Cesar Manrique was involved with. 

Inland Teguise, once the capital of Lanzarote, is a picturesque small town with 17th century buildings and cobbled streets.  We loved it. Interesting individual shops and galleries cluster off the tiny square, where  the main church - Neustro Senora de Guadalupe is situated.  In the square we visited the Palacio Spinola (also renovated by Cesar Manrique.  Is there anything he didn't have a hand in?).  As well as being a beautiful building, it houses the Timple Museum.  The Timple is a small Canarian stringed instrument.  We enjoyed the videos being shown.  One of the instruments being lovingly made, and another of musicians playing wonderful music.  Other beautifully crafted similar instruments from around the world are also displayed.  Entry is free.

A quiet corner in the Palacio Spinola

The Sunday Market takes place in the huge square on the outskirts of the village.  Below is a photo of the market square.  We visited midweek and as you see it was very quiet.  There are very clean public toilets in this square.  With only a couple of exceptions, loo hygiene is splendid everywhere on the island. 



The Spacious Market Square in Teguise

 



Remembering Carnival Time in Costa Teguise

Movers and Shakers

Although the Carnival in Lanzarote is now a month ago, the holiday snaps have brought back memories of duelling drummers, gorgeous dancers, exotic floats, with whole familes dressed in fantastic costumes.  Local people and holiday makers enjoying fun together.  It seemed that the whole population was out having a wonderful time.  Witches, gladiators, Egyptian Pharoes and handmaidens, little devils and even curious fish marching and dancing.  When the chilly wind got too much, there were plenty of bars and restaurants open if you wanted a meal or just a coffee.  All ages mixed happily together. Although there was a police presence, we saw no trouble.  After a few coffees and local brandies we danced our way back to Club Tahiti.  Grasshopper and I enjoyed the most belly laughs together we'd had in a long time.

Angel Fish

Turning Negatives in to Positives

To me Lanzarote represents the resiliance and true grit of humans.  The inhabitants' ancestors not only survived the cataclysmic effects of volcanic action over millenia, but used the earth's upheaval to best advantage.  The whole island is evidence of mind over matter.  Lanzarotians have ingeniously used the rocks blasted from the centre of the earth and transformed the devastated landscape into somthing ruggedly unique and beautiful.  Fertile volcanic soil is protected from the wind by low, crescent shaped walls.



Crescent shaped walls protect plants from drying breezes.

 



Working at El Grifo

Grapevines grow in pits, and produce delicious and varied wines. We sampled some at El Grifo (established in 1775), with a small taster of local cheeses. There is a wine museum here where we were able to wander freely, even into the vineyard.  The vine pits look very practical as the top of the vines are just above ground level on sturdy frames.  We bought a bottle of Tinto Barrica, also a bright poster, designed by artist, sculptor, architect, environmentalist, Cesar Manrique. 

For more on El Grifo visit http://www.elgrifo.com/   

Bodega Rubicon

Later we enjoyed lunch at Bodega Rubicon http://www.vinosrubicon.com/   - wine producers since the 18th century.  We sat in the pleasant restaurant because it was blowing a gale outside. 

We shared a tasty meal of mixed salad, sauteed rabbit, squid and canarian potatoes.  As I wasn't driving I had a small glass of their red which was full bodied and to me tasted quite herbaceous.  The waiters were very pleasant and spoke some english.  The toilets were outside, underground and extremely clean.

The still hot, but currently dormant volcano Timanfaya, fascinated Grasshopper and me.  The restaurant at the top would be the first to go should the volcano errupt again.  Chickens are cooked over heat rising from a pit that apparantly sinks deep into the volcano.  Several times a day employees of the National Park amaze visitors by igniting a bush simply by thrusting it a few feet into a hole in the ground. In another demonstration of the sleeping yet potent power of Timanfaya, they pour water into a pipe set into the ground and run to avoid being blasted by the scalding plume of water and steam that shoots twenty feet into the air.  See more photos at http://lanzarote.com/timanfaya

Igniting a bush on Timanfaya.

If I ever want an example of the power of positive thinking (and action), then Lanzarote and its people will jump to mind.

Seasons Club Tahiti -First Impressions

Grasshopper drove the hire car (Gold Car - easy pick up, friendly) the 14 miles from the airport. Very good directions were provided. Greeted by very friendly receptionist and directed to our apartment situated on the 1st floor overlooking the swiming pools. Smallish, but simply and nicely furnished with everything we need - fridge, cooker, microwave, TV (British channels), CD and DVD players, plenty of crockery, cutlery, glasses. V. Clean, comfy bed). After changing , thirst quenching drink beckoned at the pool bar. Very delicious meal in restaurant that night. The best seabream (me) and steak (G) that we´ve ever eaten. A great start. Looking forward to exploring more and a swim.

Midair Mishaps and Kindness

Even after eating half of Grasshopper´s sandwiches, I was feeling a bit peckish after throwing my box of salad away. Still stinging after paying the 64 pounds excess baggage fee I was reluctant to boost Thos Cook´s coffers too much - so tea, soup and two mini bottles of red were purchased (must avoid de-hydration when travelling). They joined the half litre of water purchased at WH Smith, my book and glassses already on a small flap-down tray. Not a problem until I tipped the almost full cup of Ainsley Herriott veggie soup into my lap. Hot, hot, hot! I desperately offloaded the drinks from my tray to Grasshopper´s across the aisle whilst whispering ´'Ring for the Attendant, ouch, hot soup´' in an urgent, pseudo calm way. In seconds I was whisked down to the loo, curtains drawn, wet towels and soothing gel provided for calming scalded parts. Once the scalding subsided I started scraping off sweetcorn and peppers from pink cashmere jumper (Tesco´s  - but hey) and denims, then soaking the affected clothing with cold water. After taking the walk of shame up the aisle, I settled into my seat, gratefully accepted the kind concern from all around, then downed the two mini reds (to combat the shock). The clothing had dried by the time we touched down, although I did smell like the AH Veg Soup until getting to the apartment and doing my laundry a couple of hours later. I am grateful to my flight neighbours and Thos Cook flight attendants for their help and kind concern.