Chateau de Galinée

For the final week of our French adventure we headed back to the St.Malo area, where we were to catch the ferry to Portsmouth.  The site we chose was the Chateau de Galinée, about 25 miles from the port.  http://www.chateaudegalinee.com/en/

It was pouring with rain when we arrived, and hardly stopped for the whole of our stay.  It was unpleasantly muddy which probably coloured our view of the place because the facilities were good, clean modern single sex toilets and shower blocks with loo paper and hair/hand-dryers but no soap.

There are good outdoor and indoor swimming pools.  Unfortunately the excess of water descending from above did not encourage further submersion.  We did use the nice bar and restaurant and enjoyed our meal, although the poor barman and the chef seemed to be running the place single handed the night we went and it was very busy.  The shop was well stocked with the necessities.  There is a children's play area.  We loved the pond area and the antics of the exotic poultry.   


Hen that thinks it's a cat?



Negative points:-

Arriving in the pouring rain to find Reception closed for lunch and a long queue of caravans and motorhomes ahead of us.

Plastic wrist bands (like you get in hospital) which are compulsory for all visitors.  I rebelled and refused to wear mine.

There are hundreds of overgrown trees.  This means that certain parts of the site are very dark and less inclined to dry up following rain.  Few proper paths to get from the dark side of the site to the loos, so permanently muddy feet.  Trees and many hedges are in serious need of pruning.

Wi Fi was fairly costly and only available in the bar/restaurant.

Rhuys Peninsula, Sarzeau and La Ferme de Lann Hoëdic

It seems that the authorities in Brittany are just as willing to completely close roads as those who rule our highways and byways in the UK.  We followed the directions for our campsite at La Ferme de Lann Hoëdic only to get within 2kms and find the road closed.  It took us another 25 minutes to negotiate the diversion with some angst about the narrow lanes (small roads big rig) to get to the campsite.

La Ferme de Lann Hoedic is an attractive site, with spacious pitches and plenty of trees. 
http://fr-fr.facebook.com/Camping.LannHoedic?sk=wall

Play area at La  Ferme de Lann Hoedic

The owners Tim and Mireille Prouten (he's English, she's French - and a fluent English speaker) are friendly and very helpful.  We visited at the beginning of June and the site was almost full.  There are many return visitors who have filled the visitors books with photos, stories, sketches and paintings of the happy times they've had staying in the area and at the site.  The Reception also boasts some magnificent framed photos of birds.  These were taken at the salt marshes and surrounding area of Suscinio by a regular visitor.  Unfortunately the day when Grasshopper went at the crack of dawn, it was raining so the photos did not come up to scratch.

Unspoilt beaches at Lann Hoedic

Lots of English people are regulars, and we pitched near some to some friendly Dutch, German and French couples.  Marie Blanchette and Claude initiated us in to the delights of buttery Breton biscuits and savoury galettes.  Isn't it amazing how easy it can be to communicate when we try, even when verbal language is difficult?

The site has two mixed toilet/shower blocks which are modern and clean.  Strangely, toilet paper and soap is not provided, although there was a handryer. Lack of these necessities seems common in France.  It just means you have to remember to carry your own with you when you pay a visit, however I would prefer to pay slightly more for the convenience of having paper and soap provided.

Highlights of our visit to the Rhuys Peninsula

Craft Market in Sarzeau

Fresh Apricots in the Market



• Sarzeau, a pretty market town with lots of pavement cafes, church and markets in the square.  Visit on market day for a wonderful range of fresh fruit and veg, fish, bread, cheese and meats.  There was also a craft weekend market.  Unfortunately it poured with rain the whole weekend.

Castle at Suscinio

Suscinio, fairytale castle, previously the home of the lords of Normandy - currently being renovated, salt marshes, avocets, long sandy beach edged with wildflowers.  I was waylaid by an elderly french gentleman near the artisans' houses and the creperie.  A very long conversation in French resulted in him trying to sell me a cottage!  He either mistook me for someone with euros to spare or something was lost in translation.

Le Passage, St.Armel, La Villeneuve.  It was another miserable. wet day when we travelled down the narrow strip of land that connects the mainland to Le Passage which is almost an island.  Flat bottomed oyster boats are moored here.  There are pretty views across the bay, a cottage on an island that made me think of Famous Five adventures, lashings of ginger beer, smugglers and strange 'goings on'.  The rain stopped and on our way back we stopped at a roadside bar tabac, I think in St. Armel.  The French have diversification just right.  This one doubled as a boulangerie and patisserie so we were able to enjoy a glass of wine whilst contemplating which of the delicious pains et tartes we would choose for a picnic.

Lively Quiberon

The Quiberon Peninsula.  A boiling hot day and we chose to visit at le weekend so the one road down the peninsula was crammed.  The most traffic we'd encountered since Quimper.  As it is a narrow strip of land there are many stopping off points to the left and right should you want a bit of wind surfing, or kite flying or a combination job.  Lots of places for wild camping too.  We just set our sights for the southerly tip and Quiberon, a lively seaside resort with wide sandy beaches and pavement cafes.  We were lucky to find a table at one, also called Le Passage and enjoyed moules (me) filet mignon de porc (Grasshopper) et frites. 

We will definitely go back to the Rhuys Peninsula and La Ferme de Lann Hoedic, we loved it and there is so much more to see and enjoy.  

A Curious Fish at Quiberon

Pont Aven and Art

Watermill, now Restaurant at Pont Aven

It was a cold and windy Sunday when we visited Pont Aven.  With the exception of the magasin du chocolat and restaurants full of French families enjoying long lunches together, the place was closed.  It reminded me just a little of Pitlocherie in Scotland but that was probably more to do with the river and the temperature. 

Watermill Pont Aven, Guaguin 1894

It is a very picturesque place with pretty buildings, the River Aven and boats. Paul Gauguin and fellow artists flocked here in the 1880s and going by the number of galleries (all closed) there is still a heavy concentration of artists living and working here. 

We trailed about looking into the windows of all of the galleries.  They display every style of art imaginable, and every quality.  There is so much I wonder who buys the pictures.  How hard it must be to make a living in the clearly competitive art market.  Sometimes we looked in wonder at work that seemed less than skilful.  Someone must buy it - because it can't be cheap to rent a shop and set it up as a gallerie in Pont Aven. 

The restaurants were all full to bursting.  After walking up and down the river and through the town in the biting wind it was a relief to go back to the Café du Centre (Central Caf!) on the Rue de Port.  You will find it at the crossroads in the centre of the town.

Hardy souls in the wind outside at Le Café du Centre 

Chocolat chaud was a must.  When that settled, we ordered Croque Monsieur avec salade et deux verres du vin rouge (petit) et puis café crème.  It was very pleasant.  There is a lovely stained glass window and lots of polished wood.


Stained Glass in Le Café du Centre

 There were flowers on the table, madame understood our French, the food and wine were good et la toilette était trés propre. 












It is just the sort of place I can imagine myself rubbing shoulders with bohemian types discussing art and literature over the morning papers whilst enjoying a breakfast pain au chocolat and steaming coffee.  

It was a good day out and next time we'll go on a sunny day when everything is open.

Curious Fish Shop in Ville Close and everywhere in Brittany.

Heading off towards the Tinned Fish Emporium
 in Ville Close

The people of Brittany must be great tinned fish eaters.  We first saw a shop dedicated only to the promotion and sale of tinned and otherwise preserved poisson in Quimper.  We thought it must be a lone optimist's business enterprise idea that would surely be destined to fail, purely through lack of variety.  How wrong were.  Since then we have discovered that the tinned fish shops are everywhere. 

They must be part of a chain, or a franchise.  Does anyone out there know?

The shops are very attractive and on closer inspection sell a fairly wide range of tinned fishes.  Sardines in everything you can imagine, pilchards in everything, mackeral in everthing, tuna in ....., well you get the idea.  The assistant in the Ville Close branch of Fishes R Us (no it isn't really called that) let me take some arty shots, so of course we had to buy two tins of soupe de poisson, which we have now consumed.  It was delicious. 

I wondered if tinned fish shops are aimed mainly at tourists.  A Tourist Attraction.  Do people from countries deprived of sardines in tomato sauce head to Brittany to find and buy from tinned fish suppliers? 

This is certainly another example of a nation cleverly exploiting it's natural resources (see previous blogs - Lanzarote/Volcanoes). 

Further investigation into the popularity of tinned fish showed that all hypermarkets, supermarkets and local épiceries have enormous displays of it.  So the French must eat it too. 

Catch of the Day

Ville Close, Concarneau's Walled City

Construction of the old walled city of Concarneau, Ville Close, began in the 14th Century.  The sturdy walls rise from the rocky outcrop on which the town is built. Inside the walls is a thriving small town of narrow cobbled lanes. We filled many happy hours wandering through the historic streets, looking at the lovely timber framed houses.  We mooched through the shops and galleries, enjoyed lunch one day in one of the many restaurants, and had hot drinks to warm oursleves in Salons du Thé. 

The Bridge from the Fishing Port into Ville Close

You can drive to Ville Close from Le Cabellou Plage on the main road.  Park on the quayside next to the

Tourist Information Centre http://www.tourismeconcarneau.fr/  and walk across the bridge to the walled city. 

Through the Arch is a Town of Delights



0.80c pour un aller simple



On the Ferry and Dressed for Winter

We found it much more fun to take the short drive from Le Cabellou Plage to the quay at Le Passage, park for free and then catch le petit bateau - the ferry, for the short trip across to Ville Close to enter the city from the sea.  This costs only 0.80c each way, or buy a book of tickets for 5 euros 70c.

It was cold and windy or wet the twice we went over.  Despite being a chilly Concarneau when we visited, it didn't dampen our enthusiasm for the place.    The narrow streets still bustled, the granite buildings and the timber framed houses were just as picturesque. 

The Top of the Town near the Ferry

Mmm - What to Choose?

Un Cheval au Chocolat

One of the shops we loved was the Chocolaterie.  Visit here and be enveloped in a smell that is like a warm chocolatey hugg.  I defy anyone to walk in and not come out with a treat.  I'm not a chocolate fiend but I just had to help Grasshopper eat some of his luxury pick and mix chocs.  They do wonderful expensive gift selections - which can only be for the very well off or the seriously addicted.  The sugar craft and chocolate scupltures that are displayed were incredible.      



A Sweet Dragon - literally.















  

 





 





Laid Back at Le Camping Cabellou Plage

We left Quimper with every intention of staying in an Aire in Porzou that night.  We had heard and read so much from other motorhomers about this cost effective way of travelling around so of course we wanted to try.  In France les camping cars are welcome in villages and towns where it is recognised that motorhomers 
bring in custom pour les boulangeries, les epiciers et les bar-tabacs.  Special parking areas are set aside, sometimes with electricity and fresh water available, also chemical toilet emptying points.  I've also heard, (although I've yet to find out for myself) that some have toilets and showers.   The fees for staying overnight are reasonable and sometimes free, but as you would expect the camper vans are usually close together so OK for a one night stopover, although we know some people do stay for a lot longer. 

However our Aire adventure was not to be.  When we eventually found the Aire we had planned to stay at in Porzou, it was full and not nearly as big as it appeared in the photo in the Vicarious Books 'bible' ''All the Aires,  France''.  http://www.vicarious-shop.co.uk/ 

Well we were at a loss as to what to do as we didn't have a Plan B.  Luckily we saw a car park ahead of us.  It was next to water, there were boats, it was picturesque - the perfect place to re-group and stop panicking.

So we parked, got out the folding chairs and settled down for a de-stressing Earl Grey tea and Egg and Tomato sandwiches. 

Porzou with Le Camping Cabellou Plage
in the Far Distance

It was so pleasant we talked of an overnight stay there.  As we tucked in, an English couple (Pauline and David) out for a walk stopped and asked where we were staying that night.  When we said ''here'' they looked at us doubtfully and said they'd found a great campsite with wonderful clean toilets at the other side of the bay.  They pointed it out in the distance, told us the name and after a little more chat went on their way. 

By the time we'd finished lunch we were both coming round to the opinion that the car park might not be an attractive option after dark.  So off we went to track down Le Camping Cabellou Plage.  It didn't take long to get there.  We drove in to find Reception closed.  There was a telephone number which I rang, but of course the answerphone message was in French.  Once again my comprehension skills were totally inadequate. 

Luckily we didn't have to wait long before a very pleasant lady (Valerie - I found out later) arrived carrying an armful of clean blankets (Le Camping Cabellou Beach also has Holiday Chalets on site).  Although we couldn't speak each other's language too well - she quickly grasped that we wanted un emplacement, mais non, nous n'avions pas resérvé.  It didn't seem to be a problem and she beckoned us to follow in Wanda.  Grasshopper drove, and I walked with Valerie down through the site.  I liked what I saw.  Very spacious pitches, separated by well trimmed hedges, mature shrubs and trees.  As it was early in the season there was lots of choice and Valerie seemed to understand when I said ''je voudrais un emplacement regarder la mer'' (yes I know - but I'm still learning).

She spoke with a gentleman who was hedge trimming.  He turned out to be Jean Christophe, one of the owners.  In perfect English he asked us how long we would be staying.  We thought initially three nights -maybe more.  He suggested we choose the pitch we wanted and pointed out a few that would be more sheltered from the wind.  Brittany is known for le vent, which (like Lanzarote - see April/May blogs) seems to blow most of the time.    In the end we chose a less sheltered pitch for the sake of a view of the bay and the boats. 



Un emplacement avec une vue de la mer.



The site exceeded our expectations.  We are so grateful to Pauline and David for taking the time to stop and chat and for recommending Le Cabellou Plage to us. Each pitch has its own fresh water, 10amp electricity and chemical toilet emptying point.  The pool and bar area is lovely.  Families will enjoy the children's play area.

Brave Souls in the Pool

Unfortunately it was too chilly for us to venture in to the pool.  Some people were brave enough though.  We were too early in the season to be able to benefit from the bar which opened the week after we moved on.  Fortunately, walking to the left out of the gate alongside the sea, we found a friendly Bar Tabac - Le Dundee, with tables outside where we enjoyed coffee and des Fars Bretagne.

Curious Fish (on the left) at Le Dundee

With only the road between Le Dundee and the sea, there is plenty of opportunity to drink in the view along with your café crème. 

La Plage Belle Etoile with Porzou in the Background

It seems that the people of Brittany get out and enjoy their coastline.  The beach near Le Camping Cabellou Plage is called La Plage Belle Etoile.  It was light at nights so we never saw if there was a beautiful star suspended in the heavens over the sand, but always there was plenty of boating, windsurfing practice and walking.

Messing About on the Water

Gaëlle, co-owner of Le Cabellou Plage as well as being Jean Christophe's wife, was also wonderfully patient and allowed me to practice my French with her even though she spoke perfect English and my linguistic attempts must have seemed excrutiatingly slow.  Gaëlle is happy to share information about the lovely places to visit in the area (see my next blog), and practical things like the two gorgeous patisseries to be found in the local village about 1km away, as well as the supermarkets for bigger shopping expeditions.  WiFi (weefee) is free and you can connect in the area near the bar.  It wasn't always easy to connect and it was very cold sitting outside the bar in the evenings.  If only it had been open! 

However a quick mention of WiFi connection difficulties to Gaëlle and it was sorted out the next night.

This is the perfect time to mention Nora and Neil from Ireland.  One of the problems I had with the lap top, was the difficulty I've had in seeing the screen outside (hence needing to try to connect in the evening).  Despite evening 'surfing' I found I had to cover both the screen and me with a huge blue towel in order to be able to see to email and blog.  Slightly eccentric I know.  Nora - who is a computer whizkid solved the problem for me in one easy step.  You probably all know this, but in case you don't, all you do is simultaneously press the fn key and the right arrow key - and bingo you can lighten your screen as much as you want.  To darken again press the fn key and the left arrow.  Simple when you know how!

We hope you are still enjoying your trip Nora and Neil.  You too Pauline and David.

Immaculate Toilet and Shower Block

People who regularly read my blog perhaps know by now that in common with other motorhomers and caravaners, a site gets the thumbs up (or down) depending on the state of its loos and showers. 

Well Le Cabellou Plage does get the upturned digit - because washing and sanitory facilities are new, well built and maintained, scrupulously clean, the loos have big flushes and there is an abundance of toilet paper. 

French Style Toilets (and very clean)

The showers although hot, are those interrupted water flow types, which is a bit irritating, and you have to remember to take your own soap and towel when you go to the loo because soap isn't provided and there are no hand dryers.  Also you have to sit on cold porcelain shaped like a loo seat, which is odd to British bottoms, however because everything is kept so immaculately clean - we got used to it. 

We found it quite difficult to leave Le Camping Cabellou Plage.  Gaëlle was happy for us to stay for an indeterminate length of time.  The site is reasonably priced, plus early in the season there are discounts to be had. So our three days stretched to six, but in the end Carnac beckoned with its mysterious menhirs, alignements and dolmans.  But first we enjoyed the delights of the walled city of Concarneau.  Please check out my next blog.

If you read this Gaëlle and Jean Christophe, and if you want customer feedback, we really enjoyed staying at Le Camping Cabellou Plage, it is a credit to you both and your hard work.  The site is attractive and in a beautiful and interesting area.  We definitely want to visit again and wouldn't hesitate in recommending it to everyone.  The only improvements I could suggest would be soap dispensers and a hand dryer in the loo. 

To see more details about Le Camping Cabellou Plage go to:     http://www.le-cabellou-plage.com/

Kindness and Grumpy Old Men

The first people we met on arriving at L'Orangerie were Jan and Terry from Teeside.  They are seasoned explorers of France so we were pleased to accept their offer of hints and tips about the 'must sees'  and 'don't bother with', places to visit and camp in Brittany.  The following night after dinner we knocked on the canvas of their (very posh) awning and were welcomed in with a Kir.  Deidre and Ger from Ireland joined us later.  After a glass or two we were chatting and laughing like old friends.  That is until a very taciturn GOM looked in through the door and asked us to keep the noise down as it was 10.30!  As more than two of us in the group are personnes du troisieme age and none of us were dancing uproariously to loud music (there was no music at all) we were gobsmacked.

However, as always respectful of others, the group broke up soon afterwards.  As we hadn't got round to the 'must sees' and 'don't bothers' we arranged to meet at ours the following night. But dear reader when we started motorhoming we quickly came to realise that for most people caravanning and camping is a social activity.  We expect sometimes to hear other people chatting and laughing well into the night.  If we haven't been part of their group, it has never occurred to us to complain or to try to spoil their enjoyment.

Glace de Cassis in Benodet

Jan and Terry's great advice led us to beautiful Benodet, then Carnac and Concarneau.  Bendodet is a picturesque ville situated at the estuary of the River Odet.  It was sunny and warm when we got there so we got the best of both worlds - a gorgeous river, boats bobbing in the sparkling Port, then the curving sandy bay and bright blue sea.  Fantastic - we loved it.  I took some photos - but they didn't do the place justice.  But we did enjoy the best cassis glace we'd ever tasted, so here is a photo of the ice cream.

As well as loads of hints and tips about where to go Jan also solved a domestic problem for me which has irritated me since we first bought motorhome Wanda.  We chose fitted carpets (first big mistake) then tried to protect them with rugs of a similar colour (neutral - second big mistake). I swear that these rotten rugs are alive.  They are perpetually walking and crawling up the front of the cupboards.  I must pull them back every 20 seconds several hundred times a day!  I have also invested tens of pounds on gizmos meant to hold rugs in place.  All of them useless.  They have become my Achilles heel that I speak about to anyone who will listen.  Jan, bless her generous heart not only listened but gave me, yes gave me, The Solution.  A large white rectangle of  'stuff' that sticks to the carpet and the underside of the rug.  Bingo!  No walking, or at least so slowly that my sanity is saved!  Merci beaucoup Jan.

Kindness didn't stop there.
Terry a Country and Western musician gave us a copy of his CD ''Live at the Rimswell''.

Watch Terry on You Tube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuGN7DrrWsU&feature=related

We are looking forward to getting together again at the Western Motorhome Show in Malvern later in the year. http://www.outandaboutlive.co.uk/Shows/The-Western-Motorhome-Show/_sh6