Jaunts in Quimper

Walk out between the big gateposts near reception at L'Orangerie de Lanniron and take one more step forward.  Look back over your left shoulder and you will see a footworn soil path between the trees and the perimeter of the estate.  This is the unmarked start to the footpath into Quimper (thank you Anna in Reception, we would never have found it).

We enjoyed taking the slightly downhill walk in to town, past the memorial.  See photo on http://randomwritingsofagrasshopper.blogspot.com
also the stroll along the River Odet. There are some seats just as you reach the outskirts of the town near a children's playround, where we would often sit to admire the view.   If you walk this way you may notice ''deux ou trois mesdames gentilles (du troisième âge)''. They were there each time we passed and to our pleasure responded avec plaisir when we wished them ''Bonjour mesdames''.  

Physic Plants in the Priory Garden

Our next happy discovery was Le Jardin du Prieuré Locmaria (The Locmaria Priory Garden) which was re-created in 1997 to echo the convent gardens of the 15th and 16th centuries.  Plants for food, medicine and dyes are grown in neat beds.  All are named.  The roses that climb and trail over walls and trellises appear to be the old fashioned fragrant varieties.  There is plenty of seating in the sun, also in a shady arbour near a water feature.  

On the opposite side of the little square is the shop, pottery and museum of HB Henriot.  We looked in the shop and loved the brightly painted designs, but didn't buy anything because even the seconds were ''trop cher pour nous''.

At the first bridge, some men were playing a spirited game of pétanque.  They were happy to share a joke with us when I was taking photos. 

A Jovial Game of Pétanque

On the other side of the first bridge, is a Super U Express, which we found handy for buying basics before our walk back.  Head towards the Cathedral that you will see in the distance. Turn left at some point and explore the old cobbled streets. The buildings are beautiful and medieval in appearance.

Old Quimper

Quimper is a thriving, 'upmarket city'.  People look affluent and are very well dressed. There are lots of designer shops.  Prices in the indoor market and in the cafés reflect this.  I was horrified to realise later that we had paid over 6 euros for a small punnet of strawberries which turned into mush in my rucksack by the time we'd walked around all day.  Yes I know I should have bought them later in the day (and gone to the Super U previously mentioned).


The Cathédral St.Corentin with its tall, ornate spires and glorious stained glass windows is not to be missed.

St. Corentin Catherdral in Quimper

There always seems to be plenty of activity in the cathedral square.  One day we joined local people listening to folk music at a fund raising event.  I joined the queue to buy breton crepes being made at what I took to be a school stall.  I guessed that teachers were doing the making and pupils were wrapping homemade cakes and taking money.  I enjoyed my first ever crepe au chocolat.  At only 1 euro each I think I found the culinary bargain of the tour.

We wait excitedly for crepes.

Seeing the number of hat shops (three) in Quimper it is tempting to think that the local population are enthusiastic chapeau wearers. 

We've seen people in floppy sun hats, and members of a stag party in luminous sombreros, but none wearing fascinator, fedora, boater or bonnet.  Nor have we seen women in national dress wearing 12'' tall decorative lacy numbers although we've bought postcards featuring them.  You can be sure that if we come across one of these exotic creatures you will hear of it on this blog.

We finally got in to see the excellent l'exposition of Breton Art  - featururing Turner (2 paintings) and Monet (3 paintings).  I particularly loved Turner's ''Le Port De Brest, le quai et le chateau''.  Warm colours I could live with.  Although these big name attractions were in short supply, the other artists' work was incredible.  The painted detail of the rocks, sea, people and their lives was superb.  In some it was difficult to see that they were paint not photographs. 

I realise that some modern art is stimulating and thought provoking (although ''the emperor's new clothes'' can come to mind), but I so admire the talent of those who can paint so skillfully that silk looks like silk and rock looks like rock and everything is in perspective.   We didn't have enough time to linger and there was so much to see, that I regret I can't give names and examples of the paintings I loved - I just urge you to visit if you can.

Having fun in the Catherdral Square, Quimper

When we left the art gallery we went for a coffee and small brandy at one of the two cafés in the cathedral square.  The waiter disdainfully pretended not to understand what we were ordering in French.  As it was such a simple order and no-one else has had a problem with understanding what we have said so far, I put his derisive attitude down to a personality defect.  To add insult to injury they charged us almost 20 euros (yes honestly!). 

So if you like condescending treatment and paying through the nose for mediocre coffee and contemptuous service go to the Le Finistère Café (orange décor) at the edge of the square.  As you might guess we will not be going back. 

I must emphasise that this person has been the exception.  Everyone else we have met has been friendly, welcoming and charming.

L'Orangerie de Lanniron

The Château at L'Orangerie de Lanniron

Well! What a fabulous place http://www.lanniron.com

Plenty of Space to Stretch Your Legs

This beautiful campsite is in the grounds of the Château which was once the palace of the Bishops of Cornwall.  Historically it has suffered difficult times - notably during the French Revolution and during the German occupation. 

There is a memorial on the path from L'Orangerie to Quimper commemorating prisoners of war who were incarcerated there. See Grasshopper's photo on http://randomwritingsofagrasshopper.blogspot.com

A number of companies have holiday chalets within the grounds.  There are also a small number of holiday homes, however the area is so large that the place does not feel crowded.  Facilities include a golf course, restaurant, and a fabulous swimming pool.  There is a smaller pool near les emplacements, but it was closed when we were there. 

I mentioned the bar in a previous blog, no further comments are needed other than to say that all of the staff were very, very nice and organised pétanque and ping pong competitions and crepe making demonstrations, but there is no pressure if you do not want to take part.  There is also a small shop on site that sells fresh bread daily, also cooked chicken and pizza in the evenings. 

The pitches for touring caravans and motor homes vary in size, but some are big enough to take our rig.  We were lucky enought to have fresh water and electricity as well as grey water disposal on our pitch.  The site is imaginatively planted with mature trees and exotic shrubs.  These border all the pitches giving a feeling of seclusion.

The reception staff are charming and friendly.  They are happy to share information about the interesting places to visit.  They were very patient with our efforts to speak French with them.  It was comforting that some could speak English because they helped us out when words failed us, which was often.  The restaurant and swimming pool are behind reception. 

Curious Fish Swimming

The pool is a glorious, if quite chilly, extravaganza of jacuzzi whirls, currents and water slides.  We loved it and had it all to ourselves, perhaps because we stayed early in the season.

There are lovely walks through the grounds and around the château.  These are well kept. 
The footpath into Quimper is  about 2km (+), through woods and away from traffic.  It is used frequently by local people, most on cycles.  We often walked around the service roads through the grounds.  They are very countryfied with lots of wildflowers.  We even came across a pen of hens, geese and ducks.

A Handsome Couple at L'Orangerie

There is a modern, very well maintained and very clean toilet and shower block.  With proper loos, toilet paper, soap and hand dryers.  We found that this is not always the case on some sites! (see later blog). 

There is a spacious washing up area at one end of the toilet block and a laundry room at the other end.

We felt so comfortable here that we extended our stay by 2 days. 

Driving to L'Orangerie de Lanniron at Quimper

First Customer of the Day

Grasshopper had planned a lovely route diagonally across Brittany from St. Malo to Quimper.  It was a bit hairy getting out of St.Malo but soon we were on our way, stopping for a coffee at an Aire de Service just as the kiosk was opening at around 8.30am.

We avoided the boring dual carriageways and travelled through pretty and quiet towns and villages. We had no problems with the size of the vehicle as the streets weren't too narrow.  There were plenty of picnic spots well back from the roads so we were able to stop and make refreshments.   Traffic was very scarce all the way until we reached the outskirts of Quimper.

Traffic wasn't the only difficulty.  Quimper seems to have the most roundabouts, slipways, flyovers and underpasses than any other town (apart from Redditch and Telford) I've ever travelled to.  The directions were to follow the Centre Ville signs and then head out on the Southern Ringroad towards Pont L'Abbé, and look for the Lanniron sign.  I was fine with the Centre Ville signs.  Then they disappeared.  As the signs are on the exits only Grasshopper's sharp long distance eyes could sort where we needed to go out of the dozens of place names (all written in very thin letters) listed on every sign.   Of course the signs don't say Southern Ringroad (why would they?).  Clever G worked out that the Sud Ouest was the way we needed to go and then it was just a case of travelling as slowly as was decently possible and keeping les yeux skinned for the very tiny Lanniron signs.  All of a sudden there was the final swing off the road, we left the horrendous traffic behind, drove through les portails and pulled up with great relief in front of the Reception at L'Orangerie de Lanniron.
Determined to state who we were, and give our booking details in French,  I had practised whole sentences in my best French accent for several days.  I can report to mes amis that I delivered what was needed with la confiance.  Unfortunately I must have given the impression that I could speak and more importantly understand French.  The smiling receptionist called my bluff and delivered a lengthy response that definitely included a question.
Grasshopper said mon visage took on the expression of a buddha.  There was a fairly long embarrassed silence until I managed to splutter out my preferred standby in moments of terror ''Pardon Madame je ne comprends pas, mon francais est très mauvais!!''

Fortunately Anna was very good humoured, spoke perfect English, and even allowed me to continue trying to speak to her in French over the next seven days.  I like to think I improved, but Anna may tell you differently.

As le camping is situated on the vast acres of a grand château, Anna biked with us to show us les emplacements and helped us choose one of a suitable size and position.  We straight away hit it off with Jan and Terry who were pitched nearby (more of them later).   Soon we were settled in with the awning up, a meal made and a glass of red at the ready.

Setting up Camp at L'Orangerie

L'Orangerie had only opened for the season a few days earlier, so when we met Jan and Terry and another couple for a drink later at the bar we found it rather poorly stocked.  Although there was one bottle of red wine on a shelf we were told it was just for show.  I managed with rosé.  There were four pumps for beer but nothing in them, so Grasshopper coped with a bottle.  The drinks were also very expensive considering this is France and they just about give the stuff away.  So we only had one.  This and the extortionate cost of WiFi were the only negative points we found about staying at L'Orangerie.  As a result we didn't drink at the bar and couldn't access the internet until we finally found a McDonalds (free WiFi). Even then it was a bit of a trek on the hellish roads (that we got lost on every time we went out), hence the news blackout.

If the management team at L'Orangerie is interested in feedback that could improve business why not offer free WiFi in the vicinity of the bar?  People using the internet would buy tea, coffee, soft and alcoholic drinks if they were available and reasonably priced.

Everything else about the place was fantastic.  Please read my next blog to see why.

Et maintenant mes amis, en France!

Of course we arrived at Portsmouth three hours too early for the ferry to St.Malo.  Well you need plenty of time for stops at our age.  There were cars already in line when we arrived but we were first in the queue for caravans and motorhomes.  Of course we had an advantage over the cars.  We could make cheese and ham sarnies and cups of tea, but once that was done what to do?  We still had 2 hours and 30 mins until cast off.  So we sampled the delights of the loos and Costa coffee in the spanking new terminal.  Both excellent. 

First in Line and Three Hours to Go

We knew from past experience because of the size of Wanda and Daffy that we would be last to board (apart from the pantechnics, or pantechniques en France?) and so we were.  We'd booked a cabin so managed to sleep for few hours.  But first we tried out le francais at the bar (well any idiot can manage 'je voudrais deux verres de vin rouge' can't they?).  Of course they confounded us by offering deux varieties (in french) so we took pot luck and tried to repeat one of them in a devil-may-care french way.  Anyway what we got tasted fine, so 'heureux jours' et 'a votre sante'.  I can't put the graves and accents in this using blogger, so my attempts at writing French doesn't look right.  Can anyone help?

Kirkharle - Birthplace of British Landscape Architecture?

You already know of Lancelot Capability Brown.  If his name is unfamiliar to you (although how many people call their children Lancelot Capability?) his style of gardening will not be.  Perhaps you have enjoyed strolling through the rolling acres around  Blenheim Palace, Longleat or Chatsworth.  Although the land around these and other great houses appears to be as nature intended for true English countryside, the harmony between open space, trees and water is as a result of Capability Brown's vision and perhaps his formative years in the North East of England.

We love scenery like this.  Mam had been before to Kirkharle, Capability Brown's birthplace, and was happy to go again, so one beautiful morning in April we strapped ourselves in the little yellow car and drove from Hexham, towards Morpeth on the B6342.  The scenery along the route is as you would expect for this part of Northumberland, breathtaking.  You travel up hill and down dell, alongside green fields edged with dry stone walls.  The open spaces are broken by mixed woodland and dramatic everygreen forests. At this time of year cherry trees are in blossom, majestic chestnuts and copper beech are in bright leaf and lime green willows reach towards fast flowing streams.

We pulled into the car park and wanting to stretch our legs, headed first towards the lake.  This has been developed from what is thought to be one of Capability Brown's first designs, drawn when he was 23 but never used until now.  The plan was rediscovered in 1980 by the current landowners.  The design has been adapted to take account of modern needs, including the A696 which obviously did not exist in the late 1730s when Brown drew the plan.  Sympathetic planting of trees will in time mask the road and give shape to Capability's ideas. 

Unfortunately the house where Capability was born in 1716 is no more.  It is thought to have been situated somewhere in the area where the car park is now.  His father was a tennant and employee of the then landowners - the Loraines.  Capability lived and worked at Kirkharle until he was 23.  Within 2 years of leaving he was Head Gardener for Lord Cobham of Stowe.  Although you are unable to physically see his first home, you can walk in his footsteps and see some of what he saw that shaped his ideas and our appreciation of English landscaped gardens.

The courtyard area is home to artists and craftspeople although unfortunately when we were there a number of the units were closed.  However we admired the paintings, antiques, bespoke furniture and other works of art in a couple of galleries. There were some dramatic sculptures in and around one unit, but no one was around to ask about them. 

When Mam had done enough walking we went to the very nice coffee shop in one of the buildings for a homecooked lunch.  There was a good choice from dishes of the day, salads, paninis, sandwiches, cakes and scones.  It was fairly busy with business people as well as those just enjoying a day out. 

I forgot to take my camera that day, but click on www.kirkharlecourtyard.co.uk for photos and more information about Kirkharle Lake and Courtyard.

North East Attractions (as well as Hadrian's Wall)

Just Good Friends

We had no grumbles about the weather when we stayed at Fallowfield Dene in Acomb this time.  Every day was warm and sunny.  Perfect for exploring the area - and there is plenty to see and do.  Apart from the fantastic scenery and of course Roman forts along Hadrian's wall (Chesters has the most amazing and large collection of Roman artifacts) there are many simple pleasures to be found as you travel around.  What could be nicer than a pleasant drive on quiet and good roads, then a walk alongside green fields, followed by a homemade ice cream and a stroke of the cows that gave the milk for your iced confection?

Sis and I did just that when we visited Vallum Farm off the Military Road (B6318).  They also do meals, homebaked cakes and snacks in the log cabin tea room.  There is also a big play area for children and seats outside, so it is a fun trip out for families in school hols.  Other interesting businesses on the farm site include a fish and game smokery, and a dog hydrotherapist!  You could check out their website www.vallumfarm.com for details and a map.  I've tried the link from this post and it doesn't work so it would be best if you search for it yourself.

A target for walkers off the Military Road

Drive the other way towards Cumbria along the Military Road and you'll reach a sign for Lanercost pointing to the right.  You just have to take that road.  Lanercost Priory is a ruin now, but a big one.  Part of it was re-roofed in the 19th century and is now the parish church which is fully used today. 

Lanercost Parish Church and Priory

You'll be treated to wonderful scenery (well monks always chose the best sites didn't they?).  Grasshopper and I had a fascinating and varied trip there.   While we were touring the church the organist was practising, so we enjoyed a free musical treat.  Fans of the Arts and Crafts movement will be interested in the three windows designed by Edward Burne-Jones and made by William Morris's company.  The ruins and graveyard capture the imagination.  Some of the stones used in building the Priory were 'recycled' from Hadrian's Wall.  You can see the Roman markings on a few. 

There are some very old tombs, and a heart rending but beautiful effigy in terracotta of baby Elizabeth Dacre Howard who died at only four months in July 1883.

The Priory has had a turbulent history.  Frequently attacked by the Scots (including Robert the Bruce), it housed Edward 1 and his retinue for five months in 1306-7 on their journey north to fight.  This strained the priory's resources.  Then Henry V111 did his worst and the Priory passed to the Dacre family who made part of it into a comfortable home. 

The Dacre Great Hall (on the first floor of the building next to the church) is now a very unusual village hall.  We were lucky it was open to visitors that day.  There are faint remnants of wall paintings dating from the sixteenth century and a huge fireplace.  When we visited, one of the village ladies was cleaning the diamond paned windows.  Quite a task.  The hall was to be decorated for a wedding that was being held there later in the week.  What an atmospheric place for a reception.

Next door to the Priory off the main road is a lovely tearoom, restaurant and shop selling very smart gifts and local produce (also of course, ice-cream).  It was lunchtime when we arrived so I chose Caesar Salad.  Grasshopper had a panini.  There was a huge pot of strong tea, which they were happy to top up with more hot water.

Time for Lunch at Lanercost

View of Lanercost Priory from the River

There is plenty of parking, so you can leave your car at the cafe while you tour the priory, church and village hall.  We also walked through the nearby pasture to the meandering river.  There were new lambs to coo over and some fancy hens in a pen.  The view back across the field to the priory and the  gentle hills in the background is very easy on the eye. 

We left to drive back to Fallowfield Dene feeling uplifted and relaxed.  A great day out.

Artistic Northumberland

Sis and I had fun visiting some of the alternative (to Hadrian's Wall) attractions in Northumberland.  This beautiful and diverse county is a magnet to talented artists and craftspeople who draw their inspiration from the land and seascapes and the resourceful people in the North East. 

We had a wonderful day at 'The Hearth' in Horseley Village http://www.thehearth.co.uk/

We visited on one of their open days.  Everyone with studios and workshops there were happy to talk about their work and methods and answer my daft questions.  Obviously retail therapy opportunities were available.  Most of the artists and craftspeople run workshops around the North East, so if you are lucky enough to live locally or fancy having a great summer holiday learning a new skill I can't think of a better place learn it.  There are 'Art Tour' open events throughout June and July.  To find out more go to http://www.arttour2011.blogspot.com/.  I'm sure you will have all your cultural, creative, spiritual and historical needs satisfied and have great fun participating. 

Take a few extra layers.  The sun shines brightly, but the wind can cut across from the North Sea.  If you are like Sis and me you love warm and cosy clothing.  Sis spins wool from natural fleeces and then knits it!!  One of her favourite suppliers was to be found at The Hearth.  Was that why she suggested a day out there?  Anyway glorious fleeces with natural dyes (done in a tin bath the night before) were purchased and are being stroked and contemplated right now by Sis prior to actual spinning and knitting.  If this appeals to you too go to http://www.tootdesweet.com/

Mandy Patullo at Work

Mandy Patullo http://www.threadandthrift.blogspot.com/ who does fantastic applique, embroidery and handstitching work had so much to show and was happy to spend time with us. Sis has already been on one of her workshops and plans to do more. 

David Holliday in his Studio

I loved David Holliday's watercolour paintings - if I had money, his work would be some I would choose.  His landscapes and townscapes remind me of places I grew up in and near.  I was particularly drawn to his painting of the Swing Bridge across the Tyne.  See it on  http://www.davidhollidayart.co.uk/

Sis bought me irrisistible Earl Grey Tea handmade soap from Ceri at the Oakwood Soaperie http://www.folksy.com/shops/OakwoodSoaperie  All the soaps and skin care products are made with gorgeous essential oils.  I also found another great use for Ceri's body butter cake.  Not only is it very moisturising on dry skin, I found it great for smoothing and separating newly washed hair.  It definitely calms my frizz!

Everything I saw and learned on The Hearth open day was fascinating.    Click on the first link to find out about the artists, jewellery makers and printmakers I haven't mentioned here.  We also enjoyed homemade soup and refreshing elderflower presse at The Hearth's cafe.  If you fancy a bar meal and a drink with more kick, the Lion and Lamb pub is right across the road.  Free WiFi is offered there too.